Update

I raced this bike in the rain last year and wore the tires down to the threads! I was a bit shocked to see this after the race. Must have been pretty close before but there was a lot of sliding around at racing speed so.....
Also, a buddy tried out clipless pedals for the first time on my bike. He has since purchased his own setup but not without first taking a stationary spill that snapped one of the titanium spokes on the rear or the Cane Creek. CC said they had used all their spokes for warranty work so I was out of luck. Bought a spare rear wheel from my buddy Mark(again) and, though more worn, the Ti spokes from that wheel can act as backups.
In the interim, I used my faithful Neuvation wheelset. I could immediately tell the difference in the rotational mass. I know many couldn't tell if on a strange bike or with little time but taking the bike on the same routes as usual with the same tires,etc., it became obvious. I was no faster or slower but the perception was strange.
Found some nice wheels on Ebay with American Classic hubs and Ritchey aero rims. They were still new in the box and I paid about $150. If you are patient you can came out okay. These have standard nipples in the rims but are overall lighter even than the CC Ti Velos. I have had to true the rear two or three times(on the bike) Beyond this one is flirting with fragility IMO.
This year? A new frame? We'll see. Build on!

Well after adjusting the derailleurs I think I started riding the bike and never got back to the blog. The front DR was anoying me for a while. It would make a huge snapping sound when downshifting. It would occur maybe 9 of 10 times. It honestly felt like something insid ethe shifter was snapping off each time. It functioned fine but I knew that wasn't normal. I adjusted it to a compromise and would test it on the rollers. All would appear better then... CLACK! I even broke down and took it to the LBS(not like me at all!). We put it on a trainer and, like an automotive electrical problem, I couldn't duplicate the noise. I felt stupid being there in the first place and to be told, "I think it's just normal noise." made me feel like an idiot. Their adjustments gave improvements similar to my own but eventually the mechanism smoothed out. It hjas been fine since. A SRAM tip: There is always a lot of talk about front DR being crappy. The trick is to trim the front DR prior to shifting to the big ring. Going from small straight through the gate to large is a long reach and slow to respond. To me this is the benefit of front DR trim - not to quite noise when crossed up(shouldn't do that anyway!) but to stage it for the next shift. I am no longer irritated with my new groupo..... or my mechanical knowhow.

As is expected, you will add to the bike as you go - swapping out better parts as they become available. I traded out the old reliable but heavy and thick Specialized BG seat for the Fizik Arione. The seat that was once the only one I could stand now causes numbness and seems to lack a "sweet spot". IMO the more saddle time you get in the more you find a variety of seats that "work" for you.
You can look for seats 'till the cows come home, and believe me I searched the reviews, but eventually you realize that, within reason, it's your butt that does the adapting and not finding that illusive perfect saddle for your build. I have become convinced tht this very popular topic is discussed primarily by beginners. You just don't hear experienced riders whining about their limited saddle options. Whew! I feel better.

My buddy Mark had an all carbon Deda Black Magic fork. Note: Many bikes today come with proprietary "carbon forks" that match the frame. Unless you spring for a high end frame from the getgo, these will be carbon blade only forks. The steerer is aluminum. These are fine, do save some weight, and look good but certainly feel different than a full carbon fork will feel. This change made the front end lighter and twitchier. That and the new flex made me feel a bit uneasy. Though I have gotten used to it, the fork is noticeably more springy. I can stand up and bounce and feel it give. This has turned out to be of no detriment but it is strange at first. The benefit is that it saves yet more weight and does make the bike much more comfortable to ride. It is now much more steel-like in it's ride. The lighter a frameset gets, the more in tune with your technique you become. The first time you sprint in the drops, you see how the front end can move around and smooth your technique to compensate.
My buddy also had some NOS Cane Creek Volos titanium spokes wheels. Cane Creek makes only track wheels now(why, I don't know). These wheels have the nipples in the hub rather than around the rim making the revolving weight closer to the center. Marketing aside, it was immediately noticeable. They feel like they spin up quickly. Will this make you faster? No but, like the fork, the feel and responsiveness is nice. It's funny, read the forums. They are overrun with statements like, "It's not like I'm gonna race." or "Only the top pros benefit from such little improvements." Or, "I don't mind the extra 1/2 lb." I envy them. I wish I was not so easily swayed by a lightweight bike or the desire to keep up with the front group. On the other hand, maybe it's a subconscious excuse to limit themselves to what they know they can afford. I'm as opinionated as the next guy about it not being "all about the bike" but the truth is the cumulative sum of such improvements will eventually make you faster as not only will the bike get lighter but the improvement in responsiveness will help you capitalize on your technique.
Did I mention the Garmin 305 Edge? Nice computer/GPS. I like being able to throw it on any bike and, even without the chainstay pickup, I lose only the cadence function. Everything else is satellite controlled. Perfect to throw in your pocket when tooling around on a vintage bike for example.
I took a pic today as the bike sits in it's final iteration. Without pedals, as shown, the bike weighs 17lb 1oz.

Where were we?

Oh yeah, we had mounted the derailleurs. Now we have all the major components on the frame. If this was a track bike we'd have been done a while back. Now we have to mount the levers, run all the cables and guides, install handlebar tape, and adjust everything.
First we need to mount the levers. The convention is to mount them so that the bottom tip of the lever is even with the line of the lowest point of the drops. You can hold a straight edge under the handlebar drop extending forward and position the lever so that it rests on the straightedge.
Since this is a new build with new parts, running the cables is actually the most time consuming part. You must cut the cable housing to the correct length so it doesn't cause the cables to bind. Everything should have smooth curves and easy transitions.
There are two basic lever terms you will hear - aero levers and non-aero levers. Aero levers run the cables under the bar tape and exit near the stem. Non-aero leaves the cable housing flying in the wind. The aero look cleaner but I really like the vintage look of the cables looping up. How often did riders get tangled in these cables that necessitated this change?
Examples here are Campy Veloce on the left and campy non-aero on the right.



The SRAM Force levers I'm using and all modern levers with integrated shifters (sometimes called "Brifters") will be aero style. These require the brakes and the shifter cables to run under the bar tape.

When routing cables housing for aero levers, make sure you tape down the cable housings every few inches along the bars, the last place being where you anticipate your bar tape ending near the stem. For comfort, keep them from running right along where the heel of your hand will be. Though they will be covered with tape later, this will help the cable housing take the final shape and ensure you leave the length needed. I used electrical tape but any tape will work.

Cutting the cable housing is best done with a cutoff wheel on a Dremel or preferably larger motor. I used a 4" cutoff blade. It might help to tape around the housing first to prevent plastic fraying but it isn't necessary. What really helps is to hit the cut end with a fast moving sander of some sort. This will square it up quickly and keep the Teflon inner lining, the metal sheath, and the outer plastic from separating. The process is a matter of trial and cut for each cable. I started with my brake cables and ran the shifter cables last The shifter cables are not as beefy as the brake cables so remember what you are doing before you measure and cut the wrong one. Remember the old saying, "Measure twice, cut once."
The front brake cable is easy as the bars, cable, fork, and caliper all turn together - no binding issues. The rest will require a little concentration and forethought of where things will move when it's all done. Generally, you want enough slack so that you can turn the bars all the way to the left and right without binding.

Derailleurs and Such

You can throw on the brake calipers now if you want. This should be intuitive and require little fiddling with the exception of choosing the correct barrel nut. the SRAM kit came with three or so extras for various depths. The front caliper will have a longer mounting bolt but the greatest burden of reaching through these bladed carbon forks is handled by the extra long barrel nut. This can be an issue when retrofitting parts onto an older bike or trying to reuse older calipers on a new bike with a huge front fork. It's my habit to squeeze the caliper (with shoes installed) shut onto the rim while tightening the bolt. This sort of self-centers it. Torque to spec and you're good to move on.
Derailleurs (DR) are simple devices and have changed little over the years. Function has always remained the same - they rub the chain in the direction of a desired gear. Period. Index shifting is nice in that you can adjust your derailleur(DR - that's the last reminder you get!) to move an adequate amount with the single sweep/detent/click of the shifter. This prevents under/overshooting a gear or constantly adjusting your shifter to prevent DR (see!) rubbing while in the desired gear. That's about as complex as the whole concept gets. Hopefully, you have selected the correct front DR band for your seat tube. There are two basic sizes but just measure it to be sure. I had to turn a spacer for my older MASI to use my newer Veloce front DR. Works fine but I'd rather have the right size.
Mount the rear derailleur to the hanger with the single bolt. Manually press the rear DR in towards the largest gear. It will stop when it hits the low adjustment screw. The uppermost DR pulley should be in line with the largest gear - looking from above or rear. If it is off (and it will be) adjust the low limit screw ("L") until it moves into alignment. When the DR is released, it will spring back out to the smallest gear. Look to see if that upper DR pulley is in line with the smallest gear - again looking from the top/rear. Adjust the high limit ("H")screw to bring it into alignment.
The front DR is mounted either by a band or onto a brazed mount on the seat tube. My SRAM DR came with a separate S*****o band and a front DR that could mount to either. Line the DR rails parallel with the large chain wheel as best you can. Also, from the side, ensure the outside rail is just above the large chain ring teeth.
Mount the chain by wrapping it around the largest front and rear gears, bypassing the rear derailleur. Find where the links meet and add one or two. Cut there using a cutoff wheel for by pressing out the pin. There are tools for this but I used a punch and hammer. SRAM uses a proprietary connector called a PowerLink. It's great! No more pushing pins in and out. Not only is it reusable, you can carry extras to repair a broken chain in the field. You would need the pin press though to remove the broken link. The PowerLink can be seen in the opening pic of this entry.
Wrap the chain through the derailleurs and close the PowerLink. This will have pulled the rear derailleur down and away from the rear cassette.
Per SRAM instructions, place the chain into the lowest rear gear (largest gear) and the front into the lowest gear (smallest chain ring). This moves the chain into the inner most combination it will ever see. Adjust the in/out travel of the front DR by turning the "low" or "inner" limit screw so that the DR inner cage rail is about 0.5mm inside the smallest chain ring - in other words, as close as possible but not touching anywhere through crank revolution. Now is when you attach the cable from your shifter. Run it under the bottom bracket and up to the DR. Turn your barrel adjuster on the frame out 1 turn. Route the wire and pinch it under the washer/bolt on the DR. Don't overdo it, it will crush and deform the cable. You can shift it around now if you want. Now, put the chain into the highest rear gear (smallest gear)and the largest front chain ring. Adjust the "high" or "outer" limit screw so that the DR outer cage rail is just outside the chain without rubbing (again, about 0.5mm). Adjust the height of the derailleur by putting the chain into the largest ring and from the side, ensuring the outer cage rail is above the chain (in the largest chain ring) by 1 - 3mm. You will fine tune it later but the convention is to use a penny between the two. If it is too close or too far, loosen the seat tube band and slide the whole front DR up or down as needed. When you re tighten it, don't forget to look down from the top and align the rails with the chain rings. This is not a step to forgo! In the past I have had my chain "jam" while jumping into the next gear. Since you have a freewheel, this won't do much to the attitude of the bike but when cresting a hill and sprinting down the other side at 30mph+ your chain ring and thus your cranks will lock momentarily but very suddenly! If you are hammering at the time, it will nearly throw you off and at a minimum is very hard on the gears and your knees. Adjust those derailleurs! It isn't difficult but it does require attention.

Handlebar setup ..... IMO

Now that you have a roller, mount the handlebars. I ordered some 7075 44cm bars from Nashbar (www.nashbar.com) that are modern looking, black, and lighter than most at 246g. I know 'cause I weighed them. The one who was not obsessed with weight reduction now weighs every single thing. I went with a stem and bars that were the old uncool standard size. The over sized bars, this and that, are just overkill IMO. When these handlebars break on me throwing me over them, I will recant. Speaking of Nashbar, I ordered a lot from them. I was a little embarrassed like it was the WalMart of cycling but they have name brands, great prices, quick delivery, and they have been around forever. I found an article from the early 80s with a Nashbar bike compared to some other racers. It fared very well. Overall, not a bad place to look. When you order, check the "yes" box for e-mails but enter your backup e-mail so you won't fear being stalked by retailers and spam. I seldom, wait..... never, do this but I have received several one day sale notices that are really good. That's how I got the Force/Attack tire set for $63.

Okay, mount the bars and center them. Many of today's bikes have this mountain goat look to them with the bars turned up and the levers looking like horn extensions. Add those highly modified angled top tubes and they look cheap to me. I like them where the flat of the top of the bar is in line with the stem angle shown here. You do what's comfortable but if it looks goofy, this may be why.

What's Next?

It's really up to you. If you are using a traditional bike stand, you can mount the bars, add the derailleurs (but you can't adjust them yet), the brakes (can't adjust those either), or get your wheels built. I'm sure mechanics have reasons for a certain order of progress but I chose to replace the "mock-up" wheels with the final ones. I found some Neuvation M28SLs on our local Craigslist for $150. This is half price and I was considering them anyway so I went to take a look. This guy must've really taken care of his stuff! They looked new to me, were straight, and spun forever. He claimed to have only a few group rides on them and maybe a race or two. I had $160 and since he didn't have $10 change, I said just keep it. I took the wheels, extra spokes, and skewers and left happy that I had scored such a nice pair. I weighed them both and, without skewers, they weighed 1565g. Light for clinchers with semi-aero rims. I weigh about 165 so I hope they aren't too weak at that weight.
Since I was running a Campagnolo 8 speed before, the extra gear on top and bottom should be noticeable, especially on the hills. The SRAM cassettes are Shimano compatible so the tool for that is the same (seen in the pic at the top of this post). There were rumors (from online forums) that the free hub is different for Shimano 8/9 speed cassettes and 10-speed cassettes. John at Neuvation said he had heard nothing of the sort and I had no issue either. Perhaps they are speaking of derailleurs and gear spacers in the cassettes? The SRAM gears come new with a quick loader so you just align the loader on the free hub and slide them on. Even without it, each gear slides onto the hub only when the cogs align. You will also need a chain whip - something to hold the hub/cassette from spinning as you tighten the lock nut using the above tool. It would seam that the hub could hold itself since it's opposite of the freewheel direction but this just isn't so. You can use an old chain and vise grips or a bench vise but you would have to be very careful. Do yourself a favor and drop the $20 on a chain whip or make one. Whatever you do, don't try to wedge the cassette or clamp onto the gears with anything. Though I've improvised several times, it's best to keep such barbaric tools as vise grips and channel locks away from your bike. Remember, top end cassettes from any major mfg. are lightweight and are often made of unique materials (titanium) and are about $150. Take it to the LBS if you are willing to scrimp here.
Mount your tires. The tires were the only thing I reused at the time. By this posting I have received my Continental Attack/Force GP tires and have them mounted. These come only as a matched pair and are considered "racing tires" by some. They are lighter than the Michelin Megamiums by about a full tire and are supposed to be pretty durable. 199g for the front and 211g for the rear. That's pretty light for a clincher set. "Hand-made in Germany" might translate to "Hand-changed (on the roadside) in Kansas City". I have yet to flat on our regular routes this year so I'm hoping these will prove durable enough. Tip: When searching for bike components go to:

There are also other similar review sites for cycling gear but by searching and cross-referencing data you'll get a good idea if a part is appropriate for your purposes. I'm convinced that many of the bad reviews, with tires for example, are from those who did not do research and now are angry that a "race tire" they just had to have developed a flat after only 500 miles. Really? Maybe you shoulda looked that one up! I'll likely eat my words but I'm going into this knowing the risks. I'm remembering the whole "strong, light, cheap" thing.
Once the tires are mounted, (you don't need to know how to do that do you?) slap them on, mount the wheels, and stand the bike up. Step back and take a look. It's starting to look like something.

Crankset

Not cranks, it's crankset. You must pose and follow the industry standards and say all sorts of pretentious things like this if you want to continue.
There are several types of bottom brackets depending on your frame. Mine took a 68mm (width) American thread. The older Masi I'm building takes Italian thread. The width, 102mm, 110mm, etc. is determined by the crank manufacturer and not necessarily by the frame you have. There are times when a recommended BB is so narrow that the crank arms will hit your chainstays or will give your heels so little room you'll need a wider one. Since the right side (drive side) of the BB cartridge has a fixed flange, it can be shimmed a bit for small adjustments. Go with what the crank guys say at first. Mine wasn't a problem and I suspect it isn't that common to have issues on production frames. I left the included spacers in place, one on each side, which began to groove the inner spider from the BB cups rubbing. This isn't visible and didn't compromise the carbon fiber weave but I wasn't very happy with myself. One shim would have been okay but don't space these types of BBs without careful fitting.
I used a Park tool for my BB. There are several types of BB tools. Get the one for your BB. This is for the Truvativ/SRAM GSX BB shell. The Shimano BB typically has 20 inner splines. Campagnolo has its own inner spline deal that will also fit the cassette on the rear wheel. Kudos to them for making a multi use tool. Then again, they should 'cause they are also the most expensive out there.
There are better BB tools than the one I chose. Pedros has them in a socket.

http://www.pedros.com/index

These can be used with your torque wrench unlike the Park model. Park tools are cheap and easy to find but not the best and not the most robust IMO. They even say things like, "60ft/lb is like 10lbs of force 12" from the BB." Hardly precise and equally unmeasurable. Use a torque wrench so you don't come apart on the street!
Shown here are the basics. On top is the larger ft/lb torque wrench and below, the in/lb. The hex sockets are a necessity. If you have only a bigger ft/lb torque wrench, no sweat. The common specs found in in/lbs can be easily converted to ft/lbs by dividing by 12. Sounds too simple to be true doesn't it? There are cool digital torque wrenches now that you can enter any spec into. Clicking these things up and down gets old fast but not fast enough to go buy new ones now. Cool story: I foolishly trashed my older Craftsman wrench, likely from using it as a breaker bar but I don't publicly remember. I was going to do a brake job on the girlfriend's car saving her/ her dad a few hundred bucks. I whined that I needed a new torque wrench first and what do you suppose I got in the mail? A brand new one! I wonder if Craftsman will replace the old one? Doubt it. Now it really is a breaker bar - an $80 breaker bar!

Staying off the subject I'll make a point on weight, the BB on top weighs 262g while the Campagnolo Record BB weighs 195g. One costs $17, the other, about $130.
You guess which is more. There is a .15 lb difference! You have to decide where to cut your losses or you will soon be bike poor.
Unlike the older style BB shown above, the GSX BB is basically a tube that holds the bearings in place.
Like Shimano's Octalink (for all the Ultegra/DuraAce fans), the SRAM crankset uses a fixed spindle on the drive side. Grease the bearing surfaces lightly and push it through from the drive side. BBs do have a right and left and the drive side has a larger bearing and seal. The drive side takes more direct force at this larger bearing so.......

Anyway, once through, slide the left crank arm on and install the bolt. Torque it to spec - in this case 425 - 478 in/lb (35 - 39 ft/lb). SRAM has a neat feature here. The crank bolt is inside an extractor cap so when you loosen the bolt it automatically pulls the crank arm from the spline. No need for a crank puller! Nice job!
This is also a good time to check the torque on the chainring bolts. SRAM uses a different sized hex on each side, I guess in case you have only one set of wrenches. I have so many accumulated that I have some in a box in a bag under the workbench and I still trip over whats left in the toolbox! You will be using a torque wrench and hex socket on one side anyway. 80-90 in/lb and these were all dead on.