Derailleurs and Such

You can throw on the brake calipers now if you want. This should be intuitive and require little fiddling with the exception of choosing the correct barrel nut. the SRAM kit came with three or so extras for various depths. The front caliper will have a longer mounting bolt but the greatest burden of reaching through these bladed carbon forks is handled by the extra long barrel nut. This can be an issue when retrofitting parts onto an older bike or trying to reuse older calipers on a new bike with a huge front fork. It's my habit to squeeze the caliper (with shoes installed) shut onto the rim while tightening the bolt. This sort of self-centers it. Torque to spec and you're good to move on.
Derailleurs (DR) are simple devices and have changed little over the years. Function has always remained the same - they rub the chain in the direction of a desired gear. Period. Index shifting is nice in that you can adjust your derailleur(DR - that's the last reminder you get!) to move an adequate amount with the single sweep/detent/click of the shifter. This prevents under/overshooting a gear or constantly adjusting your shifter to prevent DR (see!) rubbing while in the desired gear. That's about as complex as the whole concept gets. Hopefully, you have selected the correct front DR band for your seat tube. There are two basic sizes but just measure it to be sure. I had to turn a spacer for my older MASI to use my newer Veloce front DR. Works fine but I'd rather have the right size.
Mount the rear derailleur to the hanger with the single bolt. Manually press the rear DR in towards the largest gear. It will stop when it hits the low adjustment screw. The uppermost DR pulley should be in line with the largest gear - looking from above or rear. If it is off (and it will be) adjust the low limit screw ("L") until it moves into alignment. When the DR is released, it will spring back out to the smallest gear. Look to see if that upper DR pulley is in line with the smallest gear - again looking from the top/rear. Adjust the high limit ("H")screw to bring it into alignment.
The front DR is mounted either by a band or onto a brazed mount on the seat tube. My SRAM DR came with a separate S*****o band and a front DR that could mount to either. Line the DR rails parallel with the large chain wheel as best you can. Also, from the side, ensure the outside rail is just above the large chain ring teeth.
Mount the chain by wrapping it around the largest front and rear gears, bypassing the rear derailleur. Find where the links meet and add one or two. Cut there using a cutoff wheel for by pressing out the pin. There are tools for this but I used a punch and hammer. SRAM uses a proprietary connector called a PowerLink. It's great! No more pushing pins in and out. Not only is it reusable, you can carry extras to repair a broken chain in the field. You would need the pin press though to remove the broken link. The PowerLink can be seen in the opening pic of this entry.
Wrap the chain through the derailleurs and close the PowerLink. This will have pulled the rear derailleur down and away from the rear cassette.
Per SRAM instructions, place the chain into the lowest rear gear (largest gear) and the front into the lowest gear (smallest chain ring). This moves the chain into the inner most combination it will ever see. Adjust the in/out travel of the front DR by turning the "low" or "inner" limit screw so that the DR inner cage rail is about 0.5mm inside the smallest chain ring - in other words, as close as possible but not touching anywhere through crank revolution. Now is when you attach the cable from your shifter. Run it under the bottom bracket and up to the DR. Turn your barrel adjuster on the frame out 1 turn. Route the wire and pinch it under the washer/bolt on the DR. Don't overdo it, it will crush and deform the cable. You can shift it around now if you want. Now, put the chain into the highest rear gear (smallest gear)and the largest front chain ring. Adjust the "high" or "outer" limit screw so that the DR outer cage rail is just outside the chain without rubbing (again, about 0.5mm). Adjust the height of the derailleur by putting the chain into the largest ring and from the side, ensuring the outer cage rail is above the chain (in the largest chain ring) by 1 - 3mm. You will fine tune it later but the convention is to use a penny between the two. If it is too close or too far, loosen the seat tube band and slide the whole front DR up or down as needed. When you re tighten it, don't forget to look down from the top and align the rails with the chain rings. This is not a step to forgo! In the past I have had my chain "jam" while jumping into the next gear. Since you have a freewheel, this won't do much to the attitude of the bike but when cresting a hill and sprinting down the other side at 30mph+ your chain ring and thus your cranks will lock momentarily but very suddenly! If you are hammering at the time, it will nearly throw you off and at a minimum is very hard on the gears and your knees. Adjust those derailleurs! It isn't difficult but it does require attention.